With Vinted just ranking France’s number 1 retailer (above H&M, Zara and Amazon), it’s crystal clear that consumer habits have changed. Is fashion moving like the car industry, with ‘new,’ depreciating alongside our appetite for the chase?
Second-hand is not what it used to be. You can tell by the Shoppers. I live in Newquay and have noticed when doing my rounds of the local charity shops, that I’m often joined by young, stylish, individuals also working the rails. It’s the same in TK Maxx and online platforms such as Vinted, Vestaire, Ebay etc.
My Mum has shopped in Charity shops since I can remember, triggering, honestly, quite negative connotations. Dank smelling shops on repeat, where I was bored stiff, naturally built resentment. She was always lucky however, knows antiques and regularly found rolled up £20 notes hidden in purchased items!
My salon Atelier was located next to a huge Shelter charity shop. When we re-opened on March 12th 2020 (Post Pandemic), I was dumbfounded to see a queue running the length of the street. We were expecting record numbers ourselves, but a charity shop generating that much demand? On the very same street we have a Mary Portas ‘Living & Giving Shop’. I met Mary briefly, many years ago and really admire her. Her brother was ingrained in the Toni & Guy world I worked in. I’ll never forget a talk she gave, on how Consumer habits would change in recession. A creative genius and our foremost authority on retail and brand communication today, she was bang on.
In 2009 Mary revolutionised the fousty format of charity shops as they were then, making their outlets inviting destinations for ‘pre-loved vintage.’ This elevated and grew the target market, alongside epic profits for Save the Children. She realised like any business, charities needed to increase income but carefully re-framed the ‘in store’ experience and perception of second hand, strategically reinventing a brand. Her latest book ‘I Shop, Therefore I Am’ is next on my list..
It’s not just hot, young Fashionistas hunting boho garms though, societies poorest people are buying essential items to live- It’s levelling. It’s a no judgement safe space, where you don’t have to feel embarrassed about your budget and you’re making a small contribution back to society and the environment.
The other slightly worrying reason they thrive and retain strong presence on the High St, are the exemptions and benefits they qualify for, unlike other struggling businesses. A standard 80% relief on Business rates (with some granted a further 20% discretionary discount) plus partial VAT exemptions for donated goods sold on. Landlords will often lease premises to charity shops at lower rates or on shorter terms to stimulate footfall to other businesses in areas with high vacancy rates. Their value seemingly essential as well as enduring.
But looking through fashion magazines today, I still see pages of shiny new outfits and accessories from the high street or even catwalk and am bombarded with online marketing for fast fashion sites like SHEIN. The high end serves up inspiration reference, but rest assured under 0.5% of the UK population (UHNWIs), are buying at that level. I personally am much more impressed by the gal that looks original. I’m not up for someone remarking ‘oh that’s the Zara dress, isn’t it?’ I want people wondering. I want to blend old with new and I want bargains. I want to feel value and I don’t need 90% of the theatre that goes along with brand reinforcement. Give me a warm welcome, an ambi pur plug in and a changing room- I’m happy. Which leads me nicely on to my local appraisal..
A recent round evoked some mild Karen vibes. I was picking up potential items for a shoot and dropping off two bags of donations. I asked if I could try some dresses on. In two shops (next door to one another), I was told there was no changing room, but that I could buy the items and if they were unsuitable, I could return them? Here I am trying to do my bit, with potentially two round trips to return. The reason offered in shop 2- ‘The changing room is now used for storing wetsuits.’ Erm, ok…
As for trying to donate, harder than you might anticipate!? I was flatly rejected at the threshold twice, with shop assistant’s declaring they were ‘inundated’. I noted their dismal display prior to sashaying, Julia Roberts style outta there. So, it’s fair to say not all stores have quite got the Portas message yet (or quickly forgot it). The Secret Shopper TV series was a huge hit and I hate to say it, but all the principles remain the same! You don’t need to spend a shedload to create a positive customer experience.
Now let me take you on a very different excursion, to a sustainable boutique I just adore. Imagine if you could shop pre-loved/vintage and a divine curation of new, in one dreamy emporium? Bex of Love of Lemons has created a beautiful online brand and a treasure trove, of a physical space, loved by locals and tourists alike. A thoughtful and regularly updated range of stock and price point mean, although aspirational, the brand is accessible.
I honestly remember a time (when I first moved to Cornwall in 1997), when there was only one place to go shopping- RIP TOPSHOP Truro. This was also where I had one of my first jobs selling shoes and ran up a huge bill on a store card, buying arbitrary cloth. If I were a Navajo, my name would be ‘little top’. The shame. Thankfully some gorgeous independent boutiques have prevailed, meaning Cornwall is a pretty stylish place these days. Don’t worry, you can still get a Fat Willy’s hoody as well (but you shouldn’t).
With retailers historically adding a 250/300% mark up on wholesale, a backlash was inevitable. With the wealth divide ever widening, I welcome the movement. A Stylist would typically push a ‘Personal Shopping’ experience as part of their services. The cost of the consultant for up to 4 hours plus the ‘spend’ on items purchased feels expensive and inaccessible to me. That’s not in line with my values. The world and the way we shop has evolved beyond this dated method.
Maybe my penchant for newness has waned with age. I’m no longer fresh off the peg, nor yet vintage, but a little ‘lived in.’ New can simply mean, ‘new to you’. Whether it’s swap parties, customising or shopping second-hand, you’re breathing new life into fashion circulation, likely saving money and honing your unique style elevating well-worn to ‘worn well’.
Ella x
